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06 Sept 2025

City Cemetery: A Bilingual Journey Through a Rich History

Moments of levity emerge, punctuated by Seamus's wit and Michael's keen observations

Míċeál-Piaras Ó Ceallaiġ with the stalwart Derry headstone historian Seamus Breslin.

Míċeál-Piaras Ó Ceallaiġ with the stalwart Derry headstone historian Seamus Breslin.

In the stillness of Derry's City Cemetery, the whispers of history urge visitors to take a journey through time and memory.

Helping them understand the meaning and story behind many of the graves here are experienced guides, Seamus Breslin and Michael McGrory.

The pair, members of the esteemed 'Friends of Derry City Cemetery/Cemetery Tour Guides', have helped transport many guests into the heart of Ireland's past over the last number of years.

Despite the solemnity of the cemetery, life pulsates beneath the surface. ‘You can't travel more than 30 feet without encountering Gaelic script or stories about Gaeilgeoirí,’ Seamus remarks, his eyes twinkling with pride in his city's heritage.

The famous picture that captures Pearse's graveside oration, John Fox present.

‘It's ubiquitous,’ he adds, gesturing towards the intricate carvings and Celtic crosses that adorn the graves of Protestant and Catholic alike. With each step, the cemetery unfolds its secrets, revealing a tapestry woven with Gaelic traditions, republican fervour and the quiet resilience of the people of Derry.

As the tour progresses, Seamus and Michael weave a narrative that transcends ideology. Though ever mindful they are in a sacred, sombre place, moments of levity emerge, punctuated by Seamus's wit and Michael's keen observations.

The cemetery, a sanctuary for remembrance, bears witness to the intertwined narratives of Ireland and its language. From Protestant graves bearing Gaelic script to the solemn resting places of Irish republican martyrs, every corner reveals layers of history waiting to be uncovered.

Seamus and Michael regale visitors with tales of both local and national heroes, along with linguistic curiosities. From the enigmatic origins of townland names to the symbolism of ancient Gaelic heroes like Cú Chulainn, every anecdote adds colour to the tapestry of Derry's past.

‘Termonbacca, anglicised from Tearmann bPeacach,’ Michael muses as we passed by the tranquil spot. ‘It translates to 'Sanctuary of the Sinner,’ he says adding more depth to the observation, shedding light on the intricate blend of language and lore that defines Derry's cultural landscape. 

Endangered red squirrels find sanctuary amidst the statuary,’ Seamus remarks, his voice tinged with reverence for the delicate ecosystem that thrives within the cemetery's embrace. ‘And let's not forget the yew trees,’ he continues, ‘the ancient guardians of the cemetery’.

Mícheál Mag Ruaidhrí and Míċeál-Piaras looking at a grave of interest in Derry City Cemetery.

‘It's not just about the past,’ he stresses, his voice echoing with quiet determination. ‘It's about preserving our heritage for future generations.’ In his words, visitors hear a call to action, a reminder of the enduring significance of the cemetery in Ireland's collective memory. 

‘A lot of young Protestant /unionist groups are fascinated by language and Gaelic characteristics in the Edwardian and Victorian sections,’ Seamus went on.

 They find Gaelic script and Celtic crosses in these sections. The young boys are especially in disbelief, they say, but that’s what the boys in the Bogside have tattooed round their arms, I tell them that’s as much your cultural heritage!’

We come across a large patch of grass and Seamus stops. No marked grave is evident, but it is immediately clear, from  his passionate lament to the souls buried there, of his tireless advocacy for the recognition of the large paupers' grave (among the most substantial in Ireland) and his unwavering commitment to honouring the dignity of every soul laid to rest within these walls.

With more than 8,000 people interred in these unmarked plots, Seamus passionately believes there should be in place a proper memorial to commemorate their lives and acknowledge their final resting place.

As we walk on once more, Seamus pauses, his gaze drawn to a weathered headstone that bears the name of Óglach na hÉireann, John Fox. ‘A lot of people ask me,’ Seamus reflects, ‘who I would consider to be the most significant Irish republican nationalist figure in the cemetery.’ 

He gestures towards the grave of Fox: ‘most would reckon the more modern, of the 1970s to 1994, but I would bring them down here to the grave of Óglach na hÉireann John Fox of the Irish Republican Brotherhood.

One of the most memorable and significant moments in Irish history is 1915; planning of the Easter Rising is underway and all the people across Ireland get together in Dublin for the funeral of O’Donovan Rossa, as Pádraig Mac Piarais gave his famous graveside oration, with the military dress on and the firing party lined-up, who in the picture is at his left hand shoulder but none other than Johnny Fox, one of the fifty selected ticket holders.’

As the tour drew to a close, I found myself immersed in a wonderful world of history, language and legacy, woven together by the insightful guidance of Seamus and Michael.

Their passion for preserving the stories of the past, coupled with their deep knowledge of Derry's rich cultural heritage, made the experience truly unforgettable. I left the cemetery with a profound sense of appreciation for the resilience of the human spirit and the enduring power of remembrance.

Without hesitation, I highly recommend this enlightening tour to anyone seeking to explore the depths of Derry's history and honour the memory of those who came before us.

To get in contact with Seamus and Michael contact 079 3577 9498 / 078 7435 1224 or email: jpbreslin@outlook.com

If you would like to contact Míċeál-Piaras please email: moceallaigh01@stmarys-belfast.ac.uk

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